NATURALISING BULBS
Please click on the
small pictures to see enlarged pictures which will open in a new window.
| |
| INTRODUCTION |
| |
| One
of the most powerful images of spring is the sight of thousands of
daffodils gently billowing under cherry trees. This concept
is immediately appealing, and as there are many bulbs that are
suitable for naturalising it is, with a little planning,
one of the easiest to
achieve, albeit on a limited scale. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Narcissus Jack Snipe |
|
Two
distinct approaches can be pursued. To most gardeners naturalising means
growing bulbs in grass instead of borders. However in the strictest sense
it means bulbs growing and seeding as they would in the wild; i.e.
"in nature". The gardener therefore has the choice. |
|
Crocus Speciosus |
| Whichever
method is adopted you must remember that the quality of the next year's
display depends upon the current years growth. Leaves must be allowed to
die back naturally, or for at least 6 weeks after flowering, no matter how
untidy they become. Careful choice of varieties can reduce this problem
but not eliminate it. |
| |
| |
|
FORMAL |
| |
| With
this method the bulbs are planted to give a bold display over a limited
period of time, usually in spring, such as crocus or daffodils around the
base of a tree or along a driveway. Although
it is best to keep to a few
varieties in order to enhance the impact, it is perfectly possible to
increase the length of time of the display by planting 2 or 3 different
varieties but keep each in its own discrete area. By contrast mixed
crocus, both the large Dutch hybrids and the smaller chrysanthus
varieties, can be more effective than a single colour. |
| |
|
Crocus tommasianus Whitewell Purple |
|
The
first thing to decide is the length of time you require the display.
By careful choice of varieties it is possible to have a
succession of flowers, particularly if you pay attention to their
location. I have a large Japanese cherry in my lawn. Round it, right next
to the trunk, I have clumps of large flowered snowdrops that start the
display in January. Outside these I have 5 irregular clumps of different
cyclamineus daffodils which have been chosen to give me 6 weeks continuous
display early in the spring. As they
fade so a patch of the delicate snakes head fritilary (Fritillaria
meleagris) produce their beautiful chequered purple flowers to
coincide with the snowy blossom of the cherry. Crocus could easily be
added to fill the gap between the snowdrops and the daffodils.
|
|
Galanthus caucasicus |
|
As
all these bulbs are planted in a formal lawn and their leaves are going to
be around for some time, ease of mowing around them is of paramount
importance. Tight circles may be easy to plant but it is very difficult to
manoeuvre a mower around them. An
eliptical or rounded diamond shape is much easier to maintain as well as
having a softer, more attractive |
|
| |
| One
of the most common complaints
about daffodils is their rather lax, untidy nature once they have finished
flowering. Dead heading the bulbs not
only encourages a larger bulb to form for the next year it also improves
the appearance of the clumps as
it allows the leaves to blend
into their surroundings. Snowdrops,
crocus and fritilaries can be left to seed. |
| |
| |
|
INFORMAL |
| |
| This
approach allows the gardener much greater scope as there is an almost
unlimited timescale. However you must remember that the grass has
to be cut at some time. The guiding factor is the appearance of the bulbs.
Although it is not always possible to use only 'wild' bulbs as many have
very specific soil requirements it is possible to choose easier hybrids
to give a similar effect. We are not trying to copy nature, just
give an illusion of it. It is
therefore best to avoid large, 'modern'
looking hybrid daffodils. |
| |
|
Fritillaria meleagris |
|
Unless
you are fortunate enough to have an orchard, is is best to define the area
to be planted by maintaining a neatly mown border round it and, if it is a
large area, a path through it. Then, unlike the formal method,
most of the bulbs should be planted randomly over the area to
give the illusion that they have seeded. This is especially true of
crocus, both autumn and spring flowering, snowdrops, fritillaries and
bluebells. Species daffodils such as Lent Lily
( N lobularis) can be treated in the same way but hybrids such as the delicate
white 'Thalia' are more effective planted in clumps of 15 to 20 bulbs. |
| |
One
of the simplest, yet most effective displays I know relies on 3 varieties
of daffodils that flower at distinct times, with very little overlap.
The early display is from massed small yellow 'wild' daffodils,
both Lent Lily (N. lobularis) and the Tenby daffodil (N.
obvallaris). The dramatic
white N. 'Actea' follows these and the display culminates with a
liberal sprinkling of the May flowering Pheasant Eye daffodil (N.
poeticus recurvus).
However you can be more adventurous and introduce a wide range of other
bulbs. Greenish-white ornithogalums, blue camassias and even scarlet
tulips (to imitate poppies) will add to the drama and perennials such as
cowslips and primroses can also be included. The whole area should then be
left until all the seed has been dispersed when the grass can be cut and
removed. It must then be
regularly mown until the first bulbs appear. In my case this is Crocus
speciosus in mid September. These flower until mid November when there
is just time for a quick cut before the snowdrops start the spring display
and the cycle begins once again. |
|
Ornithogalum nutans
|
 |
| N
Actaea N lobularis
Crocus
Crocus speciosus |
|
PLANTING
METHODS |
| |
|
| Remember
that these bulbs are to be left undisturbed for many years so the initial
planting should be well spaced. Although the display may look a little
thin at first it will soon fill out. It will also take a bulb
4-7years to reach flowering size from seed so patience is
essential. It may be
necessary to 'top up' the display with fresh bulbs from time to time. |
| |
| 1.
Bulb planters, both long and short handled, are ideal for planting larger
bulbs. Make sure the hole is deep enough and push the plug back firmly.
Not ideal for small bulbs such as crocus. |
| |
| 2.
Lift a square of turf and then plant underneath using a trowel. Press the
turf back firmly and plant a few bulbs between
each square to maintain the natural appearance. |
| |
| 3.
Some bulbs can be difficult to establish in grass, especially fritillaries.
Pot 3-5 bulbs in JI No.2 in a 9cm pot. Plant out in compost plug in final
position when coming into growth. Do not replace the turf. Small species
narcissus such as N.bulbocodium also respond well to this treatment and it
is a good method of filling any gaps as adding bulbs to an existing
display at the normal autumn planting time can be quite tricky. |
| |
| |
| SUGGESTED
VARIETIES |
|
| Autumn
- we sell these bulbs in August/Sept |
| |
Crocus
speciosus; ideal for both formal or informal. Seeds freely.
Tolerates light shade. |
|
Colchicums
can be grown in grass but their untidy leaves persist well into mid
summer. |
|
|
| Winter
/ early spring - we sell these bulbs in spring (snowdrops) & autumn |
|
Snowdrops;
The common single and double Galanthus
nivalis are the easiest to establish although they can be
temperamental. Bulbs should not dry out before planting. The larger
hybrids like G. S.Arnott, G. Atkinsii can be
used in more formal areas. |
|
Crocus;
The delicate silvery-purple Crocus
tommasinianus and its hybrids are ideal for informal plantings as they
seed freely. Other crocus for naturalising include C.
chrysanthus, C. seiberi,
and Dutch crocus. |
|
Anemone;
The blue A. blanda will naturalise in sunny soils. A. apennina prefers a cooler
position. |
|
Aconites;
Eranthis
hyemalis requires a dry situation, especially in summer and does best
in thin grass under trees. |
| |
| Spring-
we sell these bulbs in the autumn |
|
Daffodils |
|
1. Most species
daffodils have special soil requirements. |
|
|
N. lobularis (lent lily) requires a soil that is not too dry and
may take a couple of years to establish. Once happy it will seed freely. N.
'W. P. Milner' is a
useful alternative. |
|
|
N. minor ( usually listed as
N. nanus)is an easy dwarf yellow species. N.
obvallaris ( Tenby daffodil) is a vigorous variety with early bright
yellow flowers. N. bulbocodium (hoop pitticoat)needs a damp acid soil to grow well as does the beautiful
N.
cyclamineus. The late flowering Pheasant eye daffodil (N.
poeticus recurvus) must not be too dry or it will abort its flowers. |
|
|
|
2. Hybrid
daffodils |
|
|
These are much more vigorous
and there are many suitable
for growing in grass. Most catalogues will indicate the best. Good
varieties include N. 'February
Gold', 'Peeping
Tom', 'Jack Snipe', 'Little
Witch', ' Thalia', 'Tresamble', 'Telamonius Plenus' ('Van
Sion'- the old double daffodil) 'Rip
Van Winkle', 'Ice wings' . |
|
|
|
Leucojum;
L aestivum, the summer snowflake, will naturalise in grass that is not too
dry. |
|
Hermodactylis
tuberosa looks like a green and black iris. It will spread freely on
dry, sunny soils in the south. |
|
Bluebells;
The true bluebell (Hyacinthoides non scriptus ) will not compete with
coarse grass, preferring a shaded site with
a light soil. The Spanish bluebell
is much more vigorous and will grow almost anywhere and increases
rapidly. Although not a bluebell the common grape hyacinth can be easily
grown in grass. |
|
Fritillaries:
F.
mealeagris is naturally a bulb of damp water meadows and is intolerant
of thin, dry soils. |
|
|
| Summer |
|
Ornithogalum
nutans has unusual greenish-white flowers. |
|
Camassia;
Most of these are suitable for naturalising, especially the smaller C.
quamash, C,q.'Orion' and the blue forms of C.
leichtlinii. They are happy on both dry or wet soils. |
|
Alliums;
small species such as the golden garlic (A. moly) are suitable for wild
areas and some of the tall drum stick varieties A hollandicum would make unusual additions to this as well. |
|
Tulips; T.
saxatilis has successfully naturalised in some mild gardens otherwise
tulips tend to be a relatively short lived
but colourful addition. |
|
Lilies; It
is possible to naturalise the early golden L. pyranaicum and the lovely
purple L. martagon but they
require ample moisture when growing and delay the cutting of the grass
until the autumn. |
This is not an exhaustive
list. Others suitable for naturalising are marked with N
in the illustrated Autumn catalogue available at the end of May each year.
See Online
Store for availability or Illustrated lists
for pictures of the bulbs mentioned.
|
